ANVIL STAND PORTABLE

Alas much broken off, but I think you get the idea. Adjust here to get your final anvil height. Pic 4 shows the width of the notch in the top of the stump. For reference its a 255# anvil.the light color shows how deep it was imbedded in the fine sand. Third pic shows the length of my anvil base. In The second pic you can see the notch at the top This sets my anvil very close to knuckle height when completed Its buried to the light colored line around 18' from the top. The first pic shows the length of my stump. If you want to see how I mount my post vice, let me know. This one is only ~7 years old and was not tarred of backfilled with gravel. My first stump lasted 18 years with no rot. This allows any moisture to move to the bottom and keep the rot you see on this stump from happening. Please note that I tar my stumps, put a foot or so of pea gravel at the bottom, and use pea gravel or ~3/4' gravel around the sides. You will find his method in 'the blacksmiths cookbook'.Īlso, be for warned, I'm building a new shop and will add my permanent anvil stand and post vice mount in the near future, so you will have to muddle thru pics of my old ones. His system is best for being able to adjust the height of your anvil.

ANVIL STAND PORTABLE

You will be able to remove all movement of stump and anvil which makes every blow far more efficient and you add the mass of the earth to back up ywr anvil!įrancis Whitaker has a more portable way to mount an anvil. I will say that as you progress or decide to have a dedicated shop that making your anvil stump permanent will affect your work like night to day. Please note that this way is for a permanently mounted anvil. The sand will deaden the noise far better than chains or a magnet

It means that moving it is quick and easy to do, such as reversing it end for end. It removes Amy other form of securing your anvil which will just get in your way. This is on a way to set up your stump by notching your anvil into the stump and bedding it in sand. Here's a first attempt at a pic tutorial by me. I'll be sure to post them.ĪBANA is making Johnstown PA. I'm sure I'll come up with better designs as I go. The next stump I hope to find a band saw that can make better cuts. I hope to minimize this with making this the working side of the anvil.īelow are some pics I think are self explanatory. You can see how I cut in to the stump with the chainsaw in the lower right corner.

The circular saw had a hard time cutting. Angle iron will also cover the tapered corners and have tabs to hook springs in for hold downs. The tapered base will allow for stability while minimizing the obstruction around the work areas of the anvil. Working side of anvil cut more steeply or vertical for hanging hammers and allowing more standing more while at the anvil. The angle iron will also keep the anvil in place. this will allow pre cut spacers to fit under the anvil raising or lowering the working height of the anvil.

So I idea is angle iron on the square corners. The smaller anvil will help me correct the mistakes I made in eyeballing the chainsaw cuts.Ģ. The ability to adjust the height by 2' to 3'. Yes, I've already picked another log for the next go around. I think you get the idea I wanted from the pics. I'm going to finish this up but I'm not real happy with my workmanship. The Iron Forge Fire Blacksmithing ForumĪ few post ago I showed a log that I saved to become a new anvil stump.Pennsylvania Artist Blacksmiths Associationīlacksmith Forums, Resources & Historical Reference

Anvil stand